The Perfect Latke

This time of year, all Jewish and most food websites and publications run articles about how to make perfect latkes. I personally watched three different Zoom events about latkes just last week.

But here’s the thing. They're all wrong.

Well, maybe not exactly wrong. But all of them talk about only one “style” of latke – made from shredded potatoes - which are fine, sometimes even very good. But if you’ve never had a latke made with GRATED potato, you’ve never had a perfect latke.

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The perfect latke is thin, with crisp, lacy edges and a creamy interior. I know this because my Dad (z”l) made perfect latkes. Everyone who ate my Dad’s latkes is forever ruined for any other latke they will ever eat. It’s not a family secret or anything. In fact, this year I came across two different Facebook threads with like-minded people. But we are few and far between, mostly, I think, because shredded potato latkes are easier to make, even if you don’t use a food processor. The Grating technique takes time, work, and lots of practice.
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Maybe this year, when we are home and without crowds to feed, some of you will make the effort. You won’t be disappointed in the result. But you’ll never be able to go back, either.

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The Grating
For my Dad, a small batch of latkes just for the family, was five pounds of potatoes. He grated them methodically, by hand of course, using a reibeisen (rib-eye-zen), a grater.

Here is a picture of a typical box grater, showing the side that most people use to “grate” potatoes for latkes.

​But it's not a grater; it’s a shredder.
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Here is the side that GRATES potatoes. See the difference? But a box grater doesn’t have holes big enough to grate pounds and pounds of potatoes; it works for ginger or garlic; for potatoes you need this shape, but bigger. ​

I haven’t been able to find this kind of reibeisen for years, not even in small kitchen shops in Germany. ​

But we can still get these, which achieve the same effect.

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The Batter
The difference between shredding and grating is dramatic and significant. Grated potatoes result in a smooth, wet batter that pours like regular pancake batter. As it pours off the spoon into the hot oil, it spreads exactly the right amount, creating a thin, round latke. And yes, I said wet. I don’t understand why every recipe I see for latkes recommends squeezing the water out of the potatoes. You end up with dry, shredded potatoes, which make hash browns. When you grate the potatoes, you leave all the water and potato starch in the batter. 

The Ingredients
Russet potatoes. Not Yukon Gold. Not heirloom purple fingerlings. Not zucchini. Good old Russet potatoes. Peel ‘em and keep them in a big bowl of cold water until you’re ready to start grating. Onion? Nope. No raw onion or caramelized onion. Just onion powder. Plus, a little bit of flour, baking powder, salt, and egg. That’s all.

Oh. And add a little bit of Fruit Fresh as you go, to keep the batter from turning brown. It will begin to look a little pink, but that's OK. Just keep adding Fruit Fresh, about 1/2 teaspoon at a time. The inside of the latkes will be white. I promise.

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The Oil
Latkes are fried, not sautéed. You need good oil with a high smoke point and plenty of it. Dad used safflower oil, specifically Hollywood safflower oil, which can be a little hard to find. Recently, my sister called the company because we couldn’t find it anywhere. It turns out the same company also makes Spectrum brand safflower oil, which we were able to order.

In addition to having a very high smoke point, safflower oil has a neutral flavor, which is good because you want the latkes to cook in the oil and get crispy in the oil, but not taste like oil.

The Pan
My parents received a set of Club aluminum cookware as a wedding gift in 1958. Over the years, my Mom replaced almost all the pieces, except the latke pan. They are heavy, which makes them hard to maneuver, but also makes great latkes. Also over the years, research began to show that aluminum leached into the food and isn't good for you. But once (or maybe twice) a year isn’t too bad, so not only did the Club aluminum stay, but another one was procured to allow for double frying capacity.

​A good, seasoned cast iron skillet works too, as will any solid, heavy bottomed pan.
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The Technique
Be generous with the oil. Start with about half an inch in the pan; enough for the latkes to float when they release from the bottom. And keep the oil clean. The biggest downside of shredded potatoes is all the little pieces that break off. They float around in the oil, batch after batch and burn, giving the oil a burned flavor too. If you insist on shredding, make sure to fish all those little shreds out of the oil after each batch of latkes to keep your oil clean.

As the oil is heating up, do a tiny test latke – maybe one inch across. It will start to sizzle, then brown around the edges. Let it fry; then flip. This is your tester both for oil heat and for salt. Under salt at first and adjust after the tester. Once the oil is hot, begin pouring latke batter into the pan one spoonful at a time. Don’t crowd the pan. Take your time. Wait until each latke releases itself from the bottom of the pan before flipping. The lacy edges will be golden brown, you will see the potato cooking from the edges in, and oil will start bubbling up through the latke. Then and only then, flip the latke, once and only once. Another few minutes, when the underside is also golden, remove them one by one to a board layered with brown paper bags, to keep them crispy.

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How to Eat Latkes
The best way to eat latkes is with your fingers, hot out of the pan (after they sit on paper bags for a minute or two). Please don't make them ahead of time and reheat for the party. They will never be as good as when they are sizzling hot and fresh.

The Perfect Latke

Reheating
IF you have any latkes left - these four were all that were left from 5 pounds - stand them up in a cookie rack to reheat in the oven at 375.​

The Meat Menu
Latke Corned Beef Sandwich
Some kind of soup - usually Split Pea
​That's all.

The Dairy Menu
A simple dairy menu is just latkes with smoked salmon and cream cheese.

This is a much sexier menu with the addition of Spanish white anchovies, smoked trout and caviar, plus a bean salad.

Latkepalooza
My Mom used to host her women's Chavurah every December, so they could enjoy my Dad's latkes. The Chavurah included our rabbi's wife, so she always took latkes home to him.

One year, my Mom wasn't well in December, so the rabbi missed his latkes. To make up for it, we hosted him and his wife for Latkepalooza during the summer, which warranted a unique menu. Of course latkes were the main event, but we added homemade humous with mushrooms, several fresh salads and Schav - Cold Sorrel Soup. 

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